You may need to use more than one type, a foam strip around the sides and top of a door and a threshold excluder at the bottom. If you are fitting one of the foam, rubber or flexible strips for the first time or are unsure which excluder is most suitable you should experiment on one door or window before you buy all the material you need.
Even after draughtproofing doors and windows, you may have draughts in an open-plan house as warmed air moves up the stairs. Heating the upstairs rooms will reduce air currents. Otherwise keep all the upstairs doors closed.
Some examples of Draught Excluders
Brush StripsUse on interior, exterior and patio doors, and on sash and casement windows. The strips consist of siliconised nylon pile in self-adhesive strips or in a metal or plastic holder which should be tacked to the frame, not the door or window. The strip is particularly designed for surfaces which move against each other, as on sash windows and patio doors.
Flexible TubesUse on interior doors and wooden casement windows. Made of rubber in a limited colour range including white and brown. The tube section is compressed to form a seal when the door or window shuts onto it. Cut lengths of the tube to size with a trimming knife or scissors. Fix to the rebate of the frame with tacks spaced at about 3m (75mm) intervals.
Letterbox ExcluderLetterbox Excluders area plastic frame with two rows of nylon bristle fits over the inside of the letterbox.
Self Adhesive Foam StripUse on casement windows and interior doors. Quality varies considerably. Some stips perish after only one or two seasons, more expensive types will last for five years or more.
Cheaper versions are made of polyurethane which hardens with age. Sizes vary according to the manufacturer but strips are usuaily about 1/4in (6mm) thick and 3/8in (10mm) wkie. Most strips are only suppiied in white. Avoid getting paint on the foam as It will harden with age, unless the manufacturer of the strip states otherwise.
Before fixing, clean the window frame or door frame with water and a little washing-up liquid to remove any grease and dirt. Rinse and wait for the surface to dry. Cut lengths to fit with scissors or a trimming knife. Peel away the protective backing as you stick down each length on the rebate. Make sure that one piece of excluder goes right into each corner.
Self Adhesive Rubber StripUse on casement windows and interior doors. AvailabLe in a limited colour range and profiles including P arid E shown above. This type of excluder is tough arid will last longer than foam.
Fix to the frame as for self-adhesive foam strip (left).
Sprung StripUse on interior and exterior doors, sash windows and wooden casement windows. Useful tor sealing around frames when the gap is uneven. Made in phosphor bronze or nylon. The strip springs to form a flexible seal between two surfaces. Sprung strip is more durable than foam or rubber strip. It is usually pre-holed and supplied with small fixing pins.
Self-adhesive sprung strip is also availabLe. Only fix it to doors and windows which are not frequently opened. It is easier to fix around a sash window than pre-holed strip but is not as durable.
Apply the strip to clean window or door frames with the raised edge facing away from the window or door. Do not use the strip for small gaps as it will make the door or window difficult to open and close. Cut metal lengths to fit with tinsnips or dual-purpose scissors, cut nylon strip with scissors. If the strip does not flex quite enough to seal a large gap, run the back edge of a penknife blade down the indent on the strip to give it a little extra spring.
Keyhole CoverKeyhole Covers are suitable for the keyholes for a mortise lock, the pivoted cover hangs in front of the hole.
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